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SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES |
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Big believers in team spirit, the Japanese embrace many sports with
almost religious fervour. It's not uncommon for parts of the country to
come to a complete standstill during crucial moments of major baseball
matches and sumo basho (tournaments), as fans gather round television
screens in homes, offices, shops, bars, and even on the street. Baseball
is actually more popular than the home-grown sumo, and hot on the heels
of both sports is soccer, which since the launch of the professional J-League
in 1993 has enjoyed phenomenal popularity.
Martial arts , such as aikido, judo and karate, all traditionally
associated with Japan, have a much lower profile than you might expect.
Tokyo with its many dojo (practice halls) is the best place in the
country in which to view or learn these ancient sports. The TIC at
Yurakucho in Tokyo has a full list of dojo that allow visitors to watch
practice sessions for free.
If you're interested in attending any sporting event, check the local
media, such as the Japan Times and Tokyo Classified , for details. To
get tickets it's best, in the first instance, to approach one of the
major advance ticket agencies: Ticket Pia, for example, can be found in
most main cities. In Tokyo, Ticket Pia also has an English-language
telephone booking line (tel 03/5237-9999). Major games and events sell
out quickly, so a second approach is to go directly to the venue on the
day and see if you can get a ticket from the box office or a tout
outside; expect to pay well over the odds, though, if it's a popular
game.
In terms of participation sports, golf is the most popular, with some
fourteen million golfers in Japan, and more courses and driving ranges
than you can swing a club at. The current recession has taken the shine
off the sport being used for business meetings and as a status symbol,
but fees for playing a round remain out of the reach of all but the most
dedicated visiting golf fan.
More accessible outdoor activities in this mountainous, volcanic country
are skiing during the winter and hiking and mountain climbing during the
summer. If you're interested in such pursuits, it's worth getting in
touch with the Tokyo-based International Adventurers Club (IAC) or its
sister club for the Kansai region, the International Outdoor Club (IOC),
both of which provide informal opportunities to explore the Japanese
countryside and mountains in the company of likeminded people. The Web
sites www.skijapanguide.com and www.outdoorjapan.com are also mines of
useful information.
Baseball
Baseball first came to Japan in the 1870s, but it wasn't until 1934 that
the first professional teams were formed. Now Japan is yakyu (baseball)
crazy and if you're in the country from April to the end of October
during the baseball season, think about taking in a professional match.
Even if you're not a fan, the buzzing atmosphere and audience enthusiasm
can be infectious.
In addition to the two professional leagues, Central and Pacific, each
with six teams, there's the equally (if not more) popular All-Japan High
School Baseball Championship. You might be able to catch one of the
local play-offs before the main tournament, which is held each summer at
Koushien Stadium near Osaka; check with the tourist office for details.
In the professional leagues, the teams are sponsored by big businesses,
immediately apparent from their names, such as the Yakult (a food
company) Swallows and Yomiuri (a newspaper conglomerate) Giants. The
victors from the Central and Pacific leagues go on to battle it out for
the supreme title in the seven-match Japan Series every autumn. Tickets
for all games are available from the stadia or at advance ticket booths.
They start at ¥1000 and go on sale on the Friday two weeks prior to a
game. For more information on Japan's pro-baseball leagues, check out
the Web site on www.inter.co.jp/Baseball/
Sumo
There's something fascinating about Japan's national sport sumo , even
though the titanic clashes between the enormous, near-naked wrestlers,
some weighing well over 100kg, can be blindingly brief - the average
weight is 136kg, while Konishiki weighed 272kg. However, the age-old
pomp and ceremony that surrounds sumo - from the design of the dohyo (the
ring in which the bouts take place), to the wrestler's hair slicked back
into a topknot - give the sport a gravitas completely absent from
Western wrestling.
Despite their formidable girth, top rikishi (wrestlers) such as
Takanohana and his recently retired brother Wakanohana enjoy the media
status of supermodels. But, in a neat reversal of Japan's appropriation
of baseball and export of pro-players to the US league, three of sumo's
most revered stars were born abroad - both the top-ranked yokuzuna
Konishiki (aka the "dump truck") and Akebono, who retired in 1998 and
2001 respectively, were born in Hawaii, while the up-and-coming American-Samoan
Musashimaru won four basho in 1999.
Accounts of sumo bouts ( basho ) are related in Japan's oldest annals of
history when it was a Shinto rite connected with praying for a good
harvest. By the Edo period, sumo had developed into a spectator sport
and really hit its stride in the post-World War II period when basho
started to be televised. The old religious trappings remain, though: the
gyoji (referee) wears robes not dissimilar to those of a Shinto priest
and above the dohyo hangs a thatched roof like those found at shrines.
At the start of a bout the two rikishi wade into the ring, wearing only
mawashi aprons, which look like giant nappies. Salt is tossed to purify
the ring, the rikishi hunker down and indulge in the time-honoured
ritual of psyching each other out with menacing stares. When ready, each
rikishi attempts to throw his opponent to the ground or out of the ring
using one or more of 48 legitimate techniques. The first to touch the
ground with any part of his body other than his feet, or to step out of
the dohyo , loses.
When not fighting in tournaments, groups of rikishi live and train
together at their heya (stables), the youngest wrestlers acting pretty
much as the menial slaves of their elder, more experienced colleagues.
If you make an advance appointment, it's possible to visit some heya to
observe the early-morning practice sessions; contact the TIC in Tokyo
for details. For all you could want to know and more on the current
scene, plus how to buy tickets, check out the official Web site of
sumo's governing body Nihon Sumo Kyokai , at www.sumo.or.jp/index_e.html
Soccer
Soccer , introduced to Japan in 1873 by an Englishman, Lieutenant
Commander Douglas of the Royal Navy, was initially slow to take off.
However, when the J-League , Japan's first professional soccer league
was launched amid a multi-billion-yen promotional drive in 1993, the
sport instantly captured the public's imagination and wallet with its
glitz and range of associated merchandise. The game is going from
strength to strength, with the league's ten teams at its inception
having now multiplied to two leagues of 27 teams in total. Sixteen clubs
play in the J1 league, eleven in the J2; all participate in the JL
Yamazaki Nabisco Cup and there are a host of other cups and contests
including the JOMO Cup, in which fans pick their dream teams from among
all the J-League players.
Top footballers have been bought in from around the world (Gary Lineker
was the star draw of the initial season) and with the World Cup
scheduled to be held in Japan and Korea in 2002 , the game's continued
popularity is assured. For full details of the J-League in English,
including match reports, check out the Web site at www.j-league.or.jp
Aikido
Half sport, half religion, aikido translates as "the way of harmonious
spirit", and blends elements of judo, karate and kendo into a form of
non-body-contact self-defence. It's one of the newer martial arts having
only been created in Japan in the twentieth century and, as a rule, is
performed without weapons.
The International Aikido Federation , 17-18 Wakao, Shinjuku-ku (tel
03/3203-9236), is around ten minutes by bus from the west exit of
Shinjuku Station in Tokyo. You'll also find the Aikikai Hombu Dojo at
the same address and telephone number, where visitors are welcome to
watch practice sessions.
Judo
Probably the martial art most closely associated with Japan, judo is a
self-defence technique that developed out of the Edo-era fighting
schools of Jujutsu. All judo activities in Japan are controlled by the
All-Japan Judo Federation , at the Kodokan Dojo, 1-16-30 Kasuga, Bunkyo-ku
(tel 03/3818-4199), reached from either Kasuga or Korakuen subway
stations in Tokyo. The dojo has a spectators' gallery open to visitors
free of charge (Mon-Fri 6-7.30pm and Sat 4-5.30pm). There's also a
hostel here where you can stay if you have an introduction from an
authorized judo body or an approved Japanese sponsor. Judo is also
taught at the Nippon Budokan Budo Gakuen, 2-3 Kitanomaru-koen, Chiyoda-ku
(tel 03/3216-5143), near Kudanshita subway station in Tokyo.
Karate
Karate has its roots in China and was only introduced into Japan via the
southern islands of Okinawa in 1922. Since then the sport has developed
many different styles, all with governing bodies and federations based
in Tokyo. At one of the main overseeing bodies, the Japan Karate
Association , 4F, Sanshin Building, 29-33 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku (tel
03/5459 6226), you can watch the classes (usually held Mon-Sat
10.30-11.30am & 5-8pm), but it's best to call first. To reach the dojo ,
take Exit 2A from Takanawadai Station, turn left and walk along the main
street for five minutes.
The umbrella organization, Japan Karatedo Federation , 6F, 2 Nippon
Zaidan Building, 1-11-2 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm;
tel 03/3503-6640), can advise on the main styles of karate and where you
can best see practice sessions or take lessons. The closest subway
station is Toranomon.
Kendo
Meaning "the way of the sword", kendo is Japanese fencing using either a
long bamboo weapon, the shinai , or a lethal metal katana blade. This
fighting skill has the longest pedigree in Japan, dating from the
Muromachi period (1392-1573), then developed as a sport during the Edo
period, and is now watched over by the All-Japan Kendo Federation ,
Nippon Budokan, 2-3 Kitanomaru-koen, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo (tel
03/3211-5804), near Kudanshita subway station. Practice sessions are not
generally open to the public, but you might be fortunate enough to catch
the All-Japan Championships held in Tokyo each December at the Budokan.
Skiing
Every winter so many Japanese head for the slopes to perfect their ski
technique, or just to hang out in the latest designer gear, that if you
don't join them you'll feel left out. It's easy enough to arrange a ski
day-trip, especially since many of the major resorts on Honshu are
within a couple of hours' train ride of Tokyo, Nagoya or Osaka. Serious
skiers will want to take more time to head to the northern island of
Hokkaido, which has some of the country's best ski resorts.
The cost of a ski trip need not be too expensive. Lift passes are
typically ¥4000 per day, or less if you ski for several days in a row;
equipment rental averages around ¥4000 for the skis, boots and poles;
whilst accommodation at a family-run minshuku compares favourably to
that of many European and American resorts.
Transport to the slopes is fast and efficient; at one resort (Gala
Yuzawa in Niigata) you can step straight off the Shinkansen onto the ski
lifts. Ski maps and signs are often in English, and you're sure to find
some English speakers and, at the major resorts, gaijin staff, if you
run into difficulties.
The main drawback of skiing in Japan is that top resorts can get very
crowded, especially at weekends and holidays; if you don't want to ski
in rush-hour conditions, plan your trip for midweek. In addition, the
runs are, on the whole, much shorter than in Europe and US. Compensating
factors, however, are fast ski lifts, beautiful scenery - especially in
the Japan Alps area of Nagano - and the opportunity to soak in onsen hot
springs at night. Snowboarding is currently very fashionable, especially
among younger skiers, and is now allowed at most major resorts, although
it's best to check with local tourist offices first.
Recommended resorts for beginners include Gala Yuzawa and trendy Naeba ,
both reached in under two hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen. Nozawa Onsen
also has good beginners' runs, but its off-the-beaten-track location
makes it a better bet for more experienced skiers. Appi Kogen and Zao in
northern Honshu and Hakuba in Nagano are considered the Holy Trinity of
Japanese ski resorts. Shiga Kogen is another mammoth resort in Nagano,
parts of which were used for competitions during the 1998 Winter
Olympics. If you're after the best powder-snow skiing without the crowds,
head north to Hokkaido, to the world-class resorts of Furano and Niseko
. There are also many slopes easily accessible on a day-trip from
Sapporo.
All the major travel agents offer ski packages , which are worth looking
into, with Tokyo's Beltop Travel (tel 03/3211-6555, www.beltop.com )
having plenty of experience setting up deals for the expat community.
Youth hostels near to ski areas often have excellent-value packages,
too, including accommodation, meals and lift passes, and can arrange
competitive equipment rental; see Furano and Niseko in Hokkaido and
Togakushi , and Norikura Kogen Onsen in Nagano-ken.
There are several comprehensive annual guides in Japanese listing all
resorts, providing detailed maps of the runs and lists of all the
facilities; one of the best is Ski Mapple, published by Shobunsha. For
English-language information, invest in the spot-on Ski Japan! by TR
Reid (¥2300; Kodansha). On the Web, check out www.skijapanguide.com
Mountaineering and hiking
Until the turn of the century few Japanese would have considered
climbing one of their often sacred mountains for anything other than
religious reasons. These days, prime highland beauty spots such as
Kamikochi are widely popular with day hikers and serious mountaineers ,
so much so that they run the risk of being overrun. In addition, there
are 28 national parks and exploring them and other picturesque areas of
the countryside on foot is one of the great pleasures of a trip to
Japan. Nevertheless, it's as well to bear in mind that those areas close
to cities can get very busy at weekends and holidays. If you can, go
midweek and out of season when you'll find the trails less crowded.
Hiking trails , especially in the national parks, are well marked.
Campsites and mountain huts open during the climbing season, which runs
from June to the end of August. The efficient train network means that
even from sprawling conurbations like Tokyo you can be in beautiful
countryside in just over an hour. Top hiking destinations from the
capital include the lakes, mountains and rugged coastline of the
Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park to the southwest and Nikko to the north.
Also west of the capital is the Chichibu-Tama National Park and the
sacred mountain Takao-san, particularly lovely when the leaves change
colour each autumn; for details of hiking in these areas and 31 others
across Japan, pick up a copy of the excellent Hiking in Japan by Paul
Hunt (¥2000; Kodansha).
The Web site www.outdoorjapan.com also has useful ideas and information
if you plan to go hiking or camping in Japan.
Beaches, surfing and diving
As Japan is an archipelago, you'd be forgiven for thinking that it is
blessed with some pleasant beaches. The truth is that industrialization
has blighted much of the coastline and that many of the decent beaches
are covered with litter and/or polluted. The best beaches are those
furthest away from the main island of Honshu, which means those on the
islands of Okinawa south of Kyushu, or the Izu and Ogasawara islands
south of Tokyo.
Incredibly, Japan's market for surf goods is the world's largest, and
when the surfers aren't hauling their boards off to Hawaii and
Australia, they can be found braving the waves at various home
locations. Top spots include the southern coasts of Shikoku and Kyushu.
Closer to Tokyo, pros head for the rocky east Kujukuri coast of the
Chiba peninsula, while the beaches around Shonan, near Kamakura, are
fine for perfecting your style and hanging out with the trendiest
surfers. Check out www.outdoorjapan.com for more information on surfing
locations around Japan.
Diving in Japan is expensive, but if you want to explore under the
oceans, the best places to head are Okinawa , around the island of
Sado-ga-shima, near Niigata, and off the Izu Peninsula, close to Tokyo.
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