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KUMAMOTO |
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Situated halfway down the west coast, within striking distance of
Aso to the east and Unzen to the west, KUMAMOTO makes a good base for
exploring central Kyushu. The city itself is reasonably attractive and
boasts a couple of worthwhile sights, namely the fearsome, fairy-tale
castle dominating the town centre, and one of Japan's most highly rated
gardens, Suizenji-koen , in the western suburbs. Wars and development
have left little else of particular note, though you've got to admire a
city which invented the endearingly offbeat "Kobori-style" swimming
which "involves the art of swimming in a standing posture attired in
armour and helmet".
Kumamoto owes its existence to the Kato clan who were given the fiefdom
in the late sixteenth century in return for supporting Tokugawa Ieyasu
during his rise to power. Kato Kiyomasa , first of the feudal lords, not
only built a magnificent fortress but is also remembered for his public
works, such as flood control and land reclamation. However, political
intrigue resulted in the Kato being ousted in 1632, in favour of the
Hosokawa clan who had previously held Kokura. Thirteen generations of
Hosokawa lords ruled Kumamoto for more than two centuries, during which
time the city thrived as Kyushu's major government stronghold, until
feudal holdings were abolished in 1871. Six years later, the final drama
of the Meiji Restoration was played out here when Saigo Takamori's rebel
army was defeated by government troops, but not before destroying much
of Kumamoto's ultimately impregnable castle.
The City
Most of Kumamoto's sights are conveniently located in and around the
castle. The outer citadel has been turned into a public park, Ninomaru ,
dominated by the remaining turrets of Kumamoto-jo to the east and
containing various public facilities, of which the Prefectural Art
Museum is the most rewarding. Beneath the castle walls, the well-arranged
and informative Traditional Crafts Centre is worth a visit. Out in the
western districts, the landscaped garden of Suizenji-koen with its
manicured mini-Fuji, vies with the castle as Kumamoto's most popular
sight.
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