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KOYA-SAN |
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Ever since the Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi founded a temple here in
the early ninth century, KOYA-SAN , some 50km south of Osaka, has been
one of Japan's holiest mountains. On top is an elongated, cedar-filled
valley perched 800m above sea level, where more than one hundred
monasteries cluster round the head temple of the Shingon sect, Kongobu-ji
. This isolated community is then protected by two concentric mountain
chains of eight peaks each, which are said to resemble an eight-petalled
lotus blossom.
Whatever your religious persuasion, there's a highly charged, slightly
surreal atmosphere about this group of temples suspended among the
clouds. The journey alone, a dramatic ride by train and cable car, more
than repays the effort, but Koya-san is also a good place to step out of
Japan's hectic city life for a day or two. One of its great delights is
to stay in a shukubo , or temple lodgings , and attend a dawn prayer
service. Afterwards, head for the Garan , the mountain's spiritual
centre, or wander among the thousands of ancient tombs and memorials
which populate the Okunoin cemetery , where Kobo Daishi's mausoleum is
honoured with a blaze of lanterns.
Of course, Koya-san is not undiscovered. Some 6000 people live in the
valley and each year thousands of pilgrims visit the monasteries. Even
here, loudspeakers, ugly concrete buildings and commercialization
intrude, and one or two women travelling alone have complained of some
mildly unmonkish behaviour. Be aware also that, while the mountain can
be pleasantly cool in summer, winter temperatures often fall below
freezing.
The biggest festival in Koya-san takes place on the 21st day of the
third lunar month (usually mid-April), when all the monks gather for a
service at the Mie-do. Everyone's out in force again for Kobo Daishi's
birthday (June 15), while during Obon several thousand lanterns light
the route through Okunoin cemetery as part of Japan's festival for the
dead (Aug 13).
The Town
The road into Koya-san from the cable-car station winds through cool,
dark cryptomeria forests for about 2km before passing a small temple
called Nyonin-do . This "Women's Hall" marks one of the original seven
entrances to the sacred precincts, beyond which women weren't allowed to
proceed; the practice continued until 1906 despite an imperial edict
issued in 1872. In the meantime, female pilgrims worshipped in special
temples built beside each gate, of which Nyonin-do is the last. Beyond
the hall, you begin to see the first monasteries and, 1km further on,
reach the main Senjuin-bashi crossroads . This junction lies at the
secular centre of Koya-san. Nearby you'll find the information office,
post office, police station and restaurants alongside shops peddling
souvenirs and pilgrims' accessories. The main sights are located either
side of this crossroads: head west for Koya-san's principal temple,
Kongobu-ji , and its religious centre, the Garan , or east for the mossy
graves of Okunoin cemetery . |
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