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KINOSAKI |
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Roughly halfway between Tottori and Amanohashidate, in the northern
part of Hyugo Prefecture, is the atmospheric onsen town of KINOSAKI , a
mecca for hot-spring aficionados, who flock in droves - especially in
the winter months - to soak in the therapeutic waters and sample crab
from the nearby Sea of Japan. People can be seen sauntering down the
ryokan-lined street in geta and yukata ; perhaps for this reason it is
rumoured that Steven Spielberg is considering Kinosaki as the location
to shoot Memoirs of a Geisha . Aside from the hot springs, and a couple
of mildly interesting temples and a willow-fringed canal reminiscent of
Kurashiki, there isn't much to see. However, if you're after an
indulgent onsen experience, then Kinosaki will make a worthwhile
overnight stop on your journey. Because of its compact size, the town is
easily explored on foot.
There are a total of six hot-spring bathhouses and one rotemburo open to
the public (most daily 7am-11pm; ¥500-800). Guests at any of Kinosaki's
plush ryokan can get complimentary passes to visit any of the soto-yu
(outside bathhouses). When you've had your fill of onsen you might want
to check out Gokuraku-ji (daily 8am-6pm; free) and nearby Onsen-ji
(daily except Thurs 9am-4.30pm; ¥300), both of which are located just
west of the Goshono-yu bathhouse on the west bank of the 4tani River.
Gokuraku-ji is home to a miniature rock garden, while Onsen-ji, which is
located halfway up a mountain, has a small collection of Buddhist
antiquities and boasts a scenic view of the town below. Although there
is a ropeway (daily except Thurs; 9.10am-5.10pm; ¥280 one way to the
temple), Onsen-ji is best reached by following the row of ancient stone
steps, flanked by towering cedar trees and a carpet of moss, that start
near the base of the ropeway. The walk takes about ten minutes.
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