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KAMAKURA |
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A small, relaxed town trapped between the sea and a circle of wooded
hills one hour's train ride south of Tokyo, KAMAKURA is steeped in
history. Many of its 65 temples and 19 shrines were founded some eight
centuries ago, when, for a brief and tumultuous period, this was Japan's
political and military centre. Its most famous sight is the Daibutsu , a
glorious bronze Buddha surrounded by trees, but the town's ancient Zen
temples are equally compelling.
Kamakura's prime sights can be covered on a day-trip from Tokyo,
starting with the temples of Kita-Kamakura , the town's northern suburb,
and then walking south to the sights of central Kamakura , before
finishing up at the Great Buddha in Hase on its western outskirts. If
you can only spare a day, make sure you get an early start: most sights
close early (generally 4.30pm in winter and only a little later in
summer). However, the town more than justifies a two-day stopover,
allowing time for the enchanting temples of east Kamakura and to follow
one of the gentle "hiking courses" up into the hills, or to ride the
Enoden line west to tiny Enoshima island. If at all possible, avoid
weekends and national holidays, when both Kamakura and Enoshima are
swamped with tourists.
Kamakura's biggest festivals take place in early April and
mid-September, including displays of horseback archery and costume
parades, though the hour-long summer fireworks display (August 10) over
Sugami Bay is its most spectacular event. The town is also well-known
for its spring blossoms and autumn colours, while many temple gardens
are famous for a particular flower - for example, Japanese apricot at
Zuisen-ji and Tokei-ji (February) and hydrangea at Meigetsu-in
(mid-June).
The easiest way of getting to Kamakura is on the JR Yokosuka line from
Tokyo Station (¥890) via Yokohama (¥380). Trains stop in Kita-Kamakura
before pulling into the main Kamakura Station three minutes later; make
sure you board a Yokosuka- or Kurihama-bound train to avoid changing at
Ofuna. For a two-day outing, it's worth considering the
Kamakura-Enoshima Free Kippu (¥1970), a discount ticket covering both
the Yokosuka and Enoden lines. Another, much more expensive option is to
take a guided tour with Japan Travel Bureau (tel 03/5620-9500;
www.jtb.co.jp ); prices for the full-day tour, excluding lunch, are
¥11,000 from Tokyo and ¥9000 from Yokohama (March 22-July 15 & Sept
20-Nov 30 Wed & Sat). In addition, Odakyu Q Tours (tel 03/5321-7887,
www.odakyu-group.co.jp/english ), located in Tokyo's Shinjuku Station ,
offers unaccompanied Kamakura day-trips, including your train fare,
lunch and an explanatory English-language guidebook, but no tour guide,
for ¥5000.
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