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HUIS TEN BOSCH

 
 
 
Where the train from Takeo turns south beside Omura Bay there's a surprise in store as the horizon fills with an unmistakably European-style building, announcing your arrival at HUIS TEN BOSCH ( www.huistenbosch.co.jp ). Opened in 1992 at a cost of ¥250 billion, this resort town is a meticulously engineered replica of a Dutch port caught somewhere between the seventeenth and twenty-first centuries. As such it might not seem a natural destination for most Western visitors, but the overall concept - part theme park, part serious experiment in urban living - and its top-quality design lift it above the ordinary.

Huis ten Bosch (meaning "house in the forest" in Dutch) owes its existence to the drive and vision of Kamichika Yoshikuni , a local entrepreneur who was so impressed with Dutch land reclamation and environmental management that he persuaded his financiers it could work in Japan as a commercial venture. After three years of planning, the complex took only another three to build on an abandoned block of reclaimed land. Twenty million baked-clay bricks were imported from Holland and Dutch technicians came to advise, but Huis ten Bosch is predominantly a Japanese venture. It employs thousands of local people and has boosted the economy not only of Nagasaki, but all Kyushu through increased tourism, especially from Southeast Asia.

While Huis ten Bosch may seem quaintly olde worlde, it's equipped with the latest technology developed specially to manage its sophisticated heating systems, wave control, desalination, water recycling and security. All the pipes, cables and wires are hidden underground and, as far as possible, it's designed to be environmentally benign. Though no one's putting a date on it, the long-term goal is to launch Huis ten Bosch as a fully functioning city

The Town
Huis ten Bosch (daily 9am-9pm; Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec 9am-8pm; last admission two hours before closing) is divided into an exclusive residential district, Wassenaar, and the public areas where you'll find a bewildering choice of museums and attractions, plus dozens of souvenir shops and numerous restaurants. Fortunately, there are plenty of signposts in English, while the 105-metre-high Utrecht tower (Domtoren) provides a prominent landmark, and a bird's-eye view from its observatory.

It's just a couple of minutes' walk from Huis ten Bosch Station to the entrance gate where there's a choice of three tickets , known as "passports". The One Day Free Passport (¥5800), allows entry to all the museums and attractions; the Two Day Special Passport (¥6800; only available to foreign tourists staying in the resort) covers one-time admission to all facilities in Huis ten Bosch and Holland Village, an older prototype mostly of interest to children; and the ordinary Passport (¥4200) covers admission only. Though there's a fair amount to explore for "free" inside, especially in summer when they stage more outdoor events, it's worth visiting at least a couple of the attractions.

The best way to get around Huis ten Bosch is on foot, wandering along the canals and past quaint, brick-faced houses on streets refreshingly free of advertising hoardings, loudspeakers and the electrical spaghetti you find elsewhere in Japan. In the far southwest corner, Paleis Huis ten Bosch is a perfect replica of the Dutch royal palace - at least on the outside. It's used for art exhibitions but, unless there's something special on, there's not a lot to see, beyond a vast love-it or hate-it mural designed on computer by Dutch artist Rob Scholte. The palace's formal gardens follow an original eighteenth-century design, never realized at the time, by Frenchman Daniel Marot for The Hague. Among other museums, the Porcelain Museum is notable for its impressive reproduction of the Charlottenburg's porcelain room as well as some actual genuine pieces of local Imari-ware.

Most of Huis ten Bosch's attractions are a touch on the cutesy side. However, three stand out for their high-quality special effects and outrageous ambition. The Great Voyage Theatre shows a short film about the first Dutch ships to reach Japan, during which the whole seating area pitches and rolls - sit in the middle if you get seasick. In Mysterious Escher you enter a topsy-turvy world to watch a sickly-sweet but well-executed 3D film based on Escher's famous graphics. Last but not least, Horizon Adventure stages a real-life flood with 800 tons of water cascading into the theatre.

 
 
 
 

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