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FURANO

 
 
 
The main reason to come to the sleepy farm town of FURANO , 120km northeast of Sapporo, is to ski at the renowned World Cup resort on the slopes of Mount Kitanomine. Famous for being the location of the old soap opera Kita no Kuni Kara ( From the North Country ), which followed the dramas of a Tokyo family adapting to life in Hokkaido, Furano is also the focus of many a salaryman's dreams about escaping the rat race.

Furano's ski resort, overlooking Mount Furano and the smoking volcano Tokachi-dake (both within the southern border of Daisetsu-zan National Park), is run by the Prince hotel group. The slopes are challenging but not as varied or as long as those at Niseko . Lift passes start at ¥1900 for a night ticket (5-9pm) and go up to ¥4500 for a one-day ticket.

Furano is best reached by direct bus from Sapporo, a service which takes around two and a half hours; ask to be dropped by the road leading up to ski-jo , rather than getting off in the centre of town, since you'll only have to backtrack. Check with tourist information in Sapporo about any special bus and lift-pass deals that are on offer. There is a train from the capital but it takes longer and costs more; if you're coming from Asahikawa, the train journey is only one hour and fifteen minutes. Buses run from the train station to the ski resort, and a taxi will cost less than ¥2000.

A good budget place to stay is the former youth hostel, now called the Alpine Visitor's Centre (tel 0167/22-1311, fax 23-4385; under ¥3000), five minutes' walk from the ski lifts, with bunk-bed dorms or twins, and good-value package deals on accommodation and lift passes. The young staff are enthusiastic, and one or two of them are likely to speak English well. They also organize balloon trips all year round, plus adventure sports in summer such as rafting, mountain biking and horseback riding. Only breakfast is served but there are several restaurants nearby. The most aesthetically pleasing place to stay in Furano, if you can get a reservation, is Pension Phytoncide (tel 0167/39-1551, fax 39-1552; ¥20,000-30,000). Named after a healing essence produced by green plants, this new country inn is a perfect example of Japanese luxury in simplicity. The owners bake their own bread, and serve foods grown on their organic farm. Each of the six Western-style rooms has its own bath/toilet, and one of the rooms is wheelchair-accessible. The two Prince hotels are comfortable but pricey - the Furano Prince (tel 0167/23-4111, fax 22-3430; ¥15,000-20,000), a giant, tent-shaped lodge rising out of the snow, is closer to the rest of the resort, while the New Furano (tel 0167/22-1111, fax 22-1189; ¥20,000-30,000), a more modern, oval-shaped tower block, is tucked away on its own a few kilometres south, and has a heated swimming pool and several restaurants.

There's a decent range of eating options on the mountain, though you're likely to eat in your hotel or pension at night, as meals are generally inclusive. For sheer entertainment value, be sure to try some of the "healthy steak" at the Cola Company Museum, Restaurant and Bar . If you follow owner Mitsuhiro Wada's rather bizarre list of rules, and eat some of the "handmade food", he'll show you his amazing collection of Hollywood movie memorabilia.
 
 
 
 

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