• Around Tokyo
• Central Honshu
• Hokkaido
• Kansai
• Kyushu
• Northern Honshu
• Okinawa
• Shikoku
• Tokyo
• Western Honshu
AROUND TOKYO
Tokyo is hemmed into its coastal location on the Kanto plain by a
ring of mountains and volcanoes, featuring temples, parks and a couple
of bustling towns and cities. It doesn't take long to get out of the
capital - two hours at most - and it's well worth doing, though if time
is short take care to prioritize. The single best reason for venturing
out lies to the north, at Nikko , where the incredible shrine complex of
Tosho-gu , built to deify the Tokugawa shoguns, is a riotous feast for
the senses - you might dislike its ostentatiousness, but you won't
regret making the journey to see it. The surrounding mountains -
fantastic walking country - are beautiful throughout the year, but
particularly so when decked out in autumn colours. If you can, make time
to check out the spectacular waterfalls nearby, up at the lakes by
Chuzenji and Yumoto, another excellent area for walking and
cross-country skiing.
The temple complex of Naritasan Shinsho-ji , with a lovely pagoda,
extensive gardens, woods and ornamental ponds, is the highlight of the
pilgrim town of Narita , some 60km northeast of Tokyo, and is certainly
the best way of passing time before catching a flight at the nearby
international airport. Ceramics lovers should not miss out on Mashiko ,
north of Tokyo in Tochigi-ken, a pottery town with over three hundred
kilns and associated with the famed craftsman Hamada Shoji and British
potter Bernard Leach. The lively town of Kawagoe , just 40km northwest
of the capital, is known as "Little Edo" and is a great place to wander
through nostalgic nineteenth-century streetscapes, poke around ancient
temples and shrines, and indulge in some serious souvenir shopping.
Sacred Mount Takao , just an hour west of the capital, provides a more
verdant escape for the casual walker and is the starting point for more
serious hikes northwest to Chichibu National Park.
Also within easy reach of the city is Japan's most famous landmark, the
venerable Mount Fuji , where you might choose to make the tough ascent
up the volcano, or simply relax in the surrounding countryside. Nearby,
the inviting landscapes of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park,
particularly around Hakone and south through Izu Hanto , warrant at
least two or three days' exploration.
Closer to Tokyo, the deceptively unassuming town of Kamakura is one of
Japan's major historical sights, home to several imposing Zen temples
and the country's second largest bronze Buddha, the magnificent Daibutsu
. There are also hiking trails through the surrounding hills, and an
enjoyable train ride further along the coast to the sacred island of
Enoshima. Just north of Kamakura you're back into the urban sprawl where
Tokyo merges with Yokohama , Japan's second largest and most
cosmopolitan city with a smattering of attractions, not least the
gourmet restaurants of Chinatown.
CENTRAL HONSHU
Located roughly midway along the Japanese archipelago, the seven
prefectures of CENTRAL HONSHU , known as Chubu , offer a wide choice of
terrain and travel possibilities. Dominating the region are the
magnificent Japan Alps , rising up in Nagano-ken and Gifu-ken, and
providing spectacular mountain scenery, top onsen and ski resorts, old
castle and temple towns, and villages in remote valleys caught in a time
warp. Just as appealing is the rugged northern coast, Hokuriku , which
covers Toyama-ken, Ishikawa-ken and Fukui-ken. Shaped by the savage
waves of the Japan Sea, it feels very much set apart from the rest of
the country. Expressways and train lines plough a direct route between
Tokyo and Kansai through the hideously industrialized south-coast
prefectures of Shizuoka-ken and Aichi-ken, yet even here there are
places worth stopping to see, including Japan's fourth main city, Nagoya
.
Even on the shortest trip, make time for the majestic Japan Alps, now
more accessible than ever, thanks to the new Hokuriku Shinkansen line
that zips from Tokyo to the 1998 Winter Olympics city of Nagano in one
hour and thirty minutes. Nagano's highlight is its venerable and
atmospheric temple, Zenko-ji , while southeast of the city, close to the
summer resort of Karuizawa , don't miss the stunning lava landscape at
Onioshidashien . Of the region's many skiing and onsen possibilities,
perhaps the best is the charming village of Nozawa Onsen , northeast of
Nagano, where you'll find excellent slopes and thirteen free hot-spring
baths. Northwest of the city, Togakushi offers ancient shrines
surrounded by spiritual forests, and a wacky Ninja warrior museum.
The focus of the southern half of Nagano-ken is the charming castle town
of Matsumoto , easily reached from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo. The town
is also the jumping-off point for the remote and pristine Alps resort of
Kamikochi , popular with mountaineers and hikers in summer, and for a
handful of immaculately preserved post towns which line the old
Nakasendo route from Kyoto to Tokyo. Between the best of these - Tsumago
and Magome - is a lovely one-day hiking route.
Across the Alps, the small convivial city of Takayama is the centre of
the Hida area famous for its skilled carpenters. Their craftsmanship is
evident in many of the preserved houses and temples of the city, as well
as in the unusual A-frame thatched houses of the nearby Shirakawa-go and
Gokayama valleys where three villages - Ogimachi, Suganuma and Ainokura
- have been designated World Heritage Sites.
Pretty as these villages are, you'll have to stay overnight to avoid the
crowds. The same is true in Kenroku-en, one of Japan's top three gardens,
in the historic and elegant city of Kanazawa, on the Japan Sea coast. To
really escape, head for the tranquil fishing villages dotted around the
rugged coastline of the Noto Hanto, northeast of Kanazawa, or the
thriving Zen Buddhist community in Eihei-ji, a rambling temple in the
forested foothills of Fukui-ken's mountains, to the south.
While the ugly, urbanized southern coast is generally best passed
through as quickly as possible, Nagoya's Tokugawa Art Museum is worth a
visit, and the city is the main access point for the attractive castle
town of Inuyama, where you can see summertime displays of the ancient
skill of ukai , or cormorant fishing. Inuyama is also close to the
impressive Meiji Mura, a vast outdoor museum of turn-of-the-century
architecture.
Wherever you go in Chubu, there are regional foods to be sampled, but
the dish you'll come across most frequently is soba, noodles made from
buckwheat flour. Nagano is renowned for its fresh fruit and chestnuts,
while the Hida region of neighbouring Gifu-ken specializes in beef,
mountain vegetables ( sansai ) and miso, fermented bean paste. Ayu river
fish are often served in the inland regions while, on the Japan Sea
coast, you should make the most of the wonderful fresh seafood. Kanazawa
has a particularly refined style of cooking, known as kaga ryori , where
each dish is exquisitely displayed, while in Nagoya the local favourite
is chicken with flat kishimen noodles.
Nagoya is home to Chubu's main airport, but it's more likely that you'll
approach the area by train, either from Tokyo or Kyoto. A couple of
train lines cut across from the southern to the northern coasts, but
many of the places in the mountains are only served by buses, which can
be infrequent and expensive. It's well worth considering renting a car
to tour this area, although note that some of the most scenic routes,
such as the Skyline drive across the Alps from Gifu-ken to Nagano-ken,
are toll roads and are closed in winter because of deep snow. The
mountain resort of Kamikochi and the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine route are
similarly off limits between November and April
HOKKAIDO
Many Japanese see HOKKAIDO as an idyllic, unspoiled frontier - the
perfect place to escape from industrialized Japan and get back in touch
with nature. Although this vision is rose-tinted, there is something
remote and wild about the country's northernmost main island. In spite
of the fact that in many places you'll find the same ugly factories and
buildings as on Honshu, and that, far from being a hick town, Sapporo ,
the island's capital, is the fastest-growing city in Japan, Hokkaido can
feel worlds apart from the rest of the country. Over seventy percent of
the island is still covered by forest, and its enormous national parks,
snow-covered slopes, rugged coastline and active volcanoes attract
millions of nature lovers every summer. Fortunately, Hokkaido can cope
with such crowds; this is Japan's second largest island, yet a mere five
percent of the country's population lives here.
With five national parks to explore, your main problem will be time. If
you're here for a week, aim to see Daisetsu-zan National Park in central
Hokkaido, which features the island's highest mountain and many hiking
trails and onsen resorts. In southern Hokkaido, the Shikotsu-Toya
National Park has two beautiful lakes, and a volcano that broke out of
the ground as recently as 1943. Highlights in the north include the
lovely islands of Rebun-to and Rishiri-to and the dramatic Shiretoko
peninsula , where you can bathe under thermally heated waterfalls and
climb still-steaming volcanoes. In winter, Hokkaido is Japan's prime
skiing destination; the long and uncrowded slopes at Niseko in the south
and Furano towards the centre of the island are among the best skiing
spots in the country. Festivals are another highlight of this season -
if you're here in February, don't miss Sapporo's fabulous snow and ice
sculpture festival, the Yuki Matsuri .
Camping or hiking around the island may bring you into contact with some
of Hokkaido's unique wildlife , which includes the tancho (a red-crowned
crane), sable, Blakiston's fish-owl and the Hokkaido brown bear ( ezo
higuma ). There are believed to be around two thousand brown bears in
the woods and locals are careful to warn you about the potential dangers
of an encounter with one - the bears can grow to a height of 2m and
weigh up to 300kg.
Only colonized by the Japanese in the last 150 years, Hokkaido is
entirely devoid of ancient temples, shrines and historical monuments.
What it does have is an intriguing cultural history, defined by its
dwindling Ainu population . This aboriginal group of uncertain origin
nearly disappeared completely after Japan opened up to the West in 1868
and large-scale immigration to Hokkaido started. Today the best way to
explore their ancient traditions is to visit an Ainu museum or spend
time in some rather touristy recreated villages.
The fastest route to Hokkaido is by plane to New Chitose airport, 40km
south of Sapporo, where you can pick up connecting flights to most other
places on the island. You'll get good value out of a JR pass by taking
the Shinkansen to Morioka and transferring to a limited express train to
Sapporo, via Aomori and Hakodate, a total journey time of 11hr 30min
from Tokyo. There are also nightly direct sleeper trains from Tokyo to
Sapporo, via Hakodate, and several a week from Osaka, but you'll have to
pay a hefty supplement for these if you're using a rail pass. The most
relaxing way of arriving in Hokkaido is by ferry , and there are several
overnight services from Honshu to various ports around the island .
As far as accommodation goes, Hokkaido has a wide range of places to
stay, including the good-value Toho network of minshuku and many lively
youth hostels which are renowned for their delicious home-cooking and
nightly singalong sessions. In the winter, most places add on a heating
charge , typically ¥300 per person, while between June and early
September, and particularly during Obon in mid-August, it's vital to
make advance bookings. In the unlikely event that you get stuck, you'll
find that many towns and villages have a basic biker house , providing
no-frills dorms, in the same locations as youth hostels, and you don't
have to be a biker to stay at one. You'll also find many free public
campsites throughout Hokkaido.
Getting around most of Hokkaido is easy enough on trains and buses, but
to reach some of the more remote corners of the island you'll need your
own transport. This is a good place to consider renting a car or
motorbike - cycling is also very popular. Hokkaido is also one area of
Japan where you may find yourself hitching - especially if you want to
explore the Shiretoko peninsula and Akan National Park in northeastern
Hokkaido, where public transport is patchy. Locals are only too keen to
give rides to foreigners so they can practise their English; if you take
the necessary precautions , safety shouldn't be a problem.
If you're planning on a slow journey around the island, it may be worth
investing in one of several special rail tickets . The best value by far
is the five one-day ticket package Sei-shun Juhachi-kippu , which is
valid on slow trains only from March 1 to April 10, from July 20 to
September 10 and from December 10 to January 20 (¥11,500). This package
can be great value, since it's possible to travel from one end of
Hokkaido to the other in a day, and the tickets can also be used on
overnight services, as long as you don't go in the sleeping cars. There
is also the Hokkaido Free Kippu, which allows unlimited travel within
Hokkaido for seven days (¥23,750), and the Gururi Free Kippu, which is
expensive at ¥33,500 for five days or ¥49,500 for ten days, but covers
the Shinkansen Bullet Train or sleeping-car fare to Hokkaido and back
from Tokyo as well as travel within Hokkaido over five or ten
consecutive days. The staff of the JR East Infoline (tel 03-3423-0111)
can explain the options in detail.
KANSAI
In a country so devoid of flat land, the great rice-growing plains
of KANSAI , the district around Osaka and Kyoto, are imbued with an
almost mystical significance. This was where the first proto-nation took
root, in the historic region known as Yamato, and where a distinct
Japanese civilization evolved from the strong cultural influences of
China and Korea. Kansai people are tremendously proud of their pivotal
role in Japanese history and tend to look down on Tokyo, which they
regard as an uncivilized upstart. Today, its superb legacy of temples,
palaces, shrines, gardens, sculpture and crafts makes Kansai one of
Japan's top tourist destinations.
The opening in the early 1990s of the spectacular Kansai International
Airport - on a man-made island - created a new gateway into Japan, but
the downturn in the economy, extremely high landing fees and concerns
that the airport is sinking have meant it has not been the success
originally envisaged. Nonetheless, it has given a significant tourism
impetus to Osaka , the country's second largest metropolis. A much-maligned
city, Osaka is not short of impressive attractions and easily makes up
for its superficial shortcomings with an excess of commercial spirit -
the source of its long-established wealth - and an unqualified love of
eating, drinking and general bonhomie. Even on the briefest stay in
Kansai you won't be disappointed if you spend time visiting the city's
fabulous aquarium , the handsomely restored castle Osaka-jo and the
laudable Liberty Osaka , an uncompromising civil rights museum.
From Osaka, you could also take a trip out to Takarazuka , home of an
eponymous show-stopping all-female musical drama troupe and the
imaginative Tezuka Osamu Manga Museum , celebrating a Japanese master of
comic-book art.
Though Kyoto is nowhere near as big as Osaka, it's still a major city,
which keeps many of its charms hidden from view. You could spend a
lifetime exploring Kyoto's bewildering array of ancient Buddhist temples
and gorgeously decorated imperial palaces wrapped round with exquisite
gardens . Until Emperor Meiji decamped for the bright lights of Tokyo in
1868, Kyoto was Japan's imperial capital and to this day represents the
last word in cultural refinement. Its elaborate cuisine, traditional
theatre, even its everyday crafts, reflect this incomparable lineage. To
avoid cultural overload, it's best to take Kyoto in small chunks, and to
spend at least one day in the surrounding districts. Hiei-zan , in
particular, offers not only majestic temples but also an escape from the
city streets, while in Uji 's Byodo-in you'll find one of the country's
supreme architectural masterpieces.
Before Kyoto even existed, the monks of Nara were busily erecting their
great monuments to Buddha under the patronage of an earlier group of
princes and nobles. This relaxed, appealing town holds the distinction
of being Japan's first permanent capital, founded in the early eighth
century. A surprising number of buildings survive, notably the great
Todai-ji with its colossal bronze Buddha, but Nara's real glory lies in
its wealth of statues. Nowhere is this more evident than the nearby
temple complex of Horyu-ji , a treasure trove of early Japanese art.
South of Nara, the monasteries of Koya-san provide a glimpse into
contemporary religious practice in Japan. This mountaintop retreat - the
headquarters of the Shingon Buddhist sect - has been an active centre of
pilgrimage since the ninth century. The monks welcome people of all
faiths to stay in their quiet old temples and join in the morning prayer
service. Afterwards you can walk through the ancient Okunoin cemetery to
visit the grave of Shingon's founder, Kobo Daishi, wreathed in incense
smoke under the towering cryptomeria trees.
With so many major Buddhist foundations in the Kansai area, it's
sometimes hard to remember that Shinto is Japan's native religion. But
the balance is redressed over on the far east side of the district,
where Ise-jingu represents one of the country's most important Shinto
monuments. The Grand Shrine of Ise, as it's known, is dedicated to
Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, from whom all Japan's emperors are
descended. Ise itself is the gateway to an attractive neck of land
called Shima Hanto . Though the area has no dramatic sights, the lovely
island-speckled bay of Ago-wan makes a rewarding destination for boat
rides through its unspoiled scenery.
The port of Kobe , now well recovered from 1995's devastating earthquake,
is less than thirty minutes west of Osaka, in a dramatic location on the
edge of Osaka Bay. Its sights are less of a draw than its relaxed
cosmopolitan atmosphere, best experienced in a stroll around Kobe's
shops and harbourside developments. Close by is the ancient hot-spring
resort, Arima Onsen , which has managed to retain a little old-world
rusticity alongside the modern hotel developments.
Wherever you choose to stay in Kansai, don't miss the opportunity to
visit Himeji , on the area's western edge, to explore Himeji-jo ,
Japan's most impressive castle. Himeji also has a couple of intriguing
museums in buildings designed by top contemporary architects and the
lovely Himeji Koko-en , nine connected gardens laid out according to
traditional principles.
The most convenient way of getting around the Kansai district is by
train. The area is crisscrossed by a skein of competing JR and private
rail lines, while the Tokaido Shinkansen provides a high-speed service
between Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe and Himeji. If you plan to travel intensively
round the region, you might want to investigate JR-West's Kansai Area
Pass. Valid for either one or four days, the pass allows unlimited
travel on all local services operated by JR West, but excluding the
Shinkansen. For those travelling on to Fukuoka, the San'yo Area Pass
covers JR services from Kansai Airport via Osaka, Kobe and Himeji .
KYUSHU
Lying off the south end of Honshu, Japan's third largest island,
KYUSHU , is surrounded by a spray of smaller islands which trail off in
a long arc across the East China Sea. It's a relaxed, uncomplicated
place, with its own distinctive character and enough variety to make it
a feasible holiday destination on its own. Though Kyushu has no
absolutely compelling sights, there's something for everyone here, from
dynamic cities to ancient folk dances, grumbling volcanoes and steaming
hot spring baths. It's perfectly possible to scoot round the main cities
in a week, but you'll need more like two to do it justice, allowing time
for the splendid mountainous interior and a few of the more far-flung
islands.
This area has long had close links with the Asian mainland, and Kyushu's
chief city, Fukuoka , is again becoming an important regional hub. An
energetic city on the island's heavily developed north coast, most
people pass Fukuoka by, but it's a shame to miss out on its superb
modern architecture and vibrant nightlife. If you've only got a couple
of days on Kyushu, however, Nagasaki represents the best all-round
destination. Though its prime draw is the A-Bomb museum and related
sights, the city also has a picturesque harbour setting, a laid-back
cosmopolitan air and a spattering of temples and historical museums.
From here it's a short hop east to Kumamoto , famous for its castle and
landscaped garden, and the empty, rolling uplands of central Kyushu
beyond. Dominated by the spluttering, smouldering cone of Aso-san , this
is great hiking country, while hot-spring enthusiasts will also be in
their element - from Kurokawa Onsen's delightful rotemburo to the bawdy
pleasures of Beppu on the east coast. The mountain village of Takachiho
requires a fair detour, but it's worth it for the thrilling train ride
along the Gokase gorge and to see traditional dance performances
depicting the antics of Japan's ancient gods.
The island's southern districts contain more on the same theme -
volcanoes, onsen and magnificent scenery - and, if you're pushed for
time, there's no need to linger. However, there are some real highlights,
including one of the world's most active volcanoes, Sakurajima , which
looms over the city of Kagoshima . Nearby Chiran was a World War II
airbase for kamikaze pilots who are the subject of a somewhat perturbing
museum, after which Yakushima provides the perfect tonic. This lush,
lumpy island, roughly 100km south of Kyushu, has recently been
designated a World Heritage Site, in honour of its towering, thousand-year-old
cedar trees.
Kyushu is connected to the main island of Honshu by road and rail.
Trains on the Tokaido Shinkansen terminate in Fukuoka's Hakata Station
and are covered by JR West's Sanyo Area Pass . From Hakata, JR Kyushu
trains fan out to all the major cities, and the company offers its own
five- and seven-day rail passes (¥15,000 & ¥20,000) for travelling round
the island. These allow unlimited travel on all local, limited express
and express trains, but not the Shinkansen or JR buses, and note that
you have to buy the exchange voucher before arriving in Japan .
In the central uplands and southern Kyushu, however, you'll be more
reliant on local buses , particularly in the south, and a limited number
of private train lines. For exploring these more remote areas, car
rental is an excellent option - as elsewhere in Japan, there are car
rental outlets in almost every town and in all the main tourist areas.
NORTHERN HONSHU
When the famous poet Matsuo Basho set out on his travels along the "narrow
road to the deep north" in 1689, he commented, somewhat despondently, "I
might as well be going to the ends of the earth." Even today, many urban
Japanese regard the harsh, mountainous provinces of NORTHERN HONSHU as
irredeemably backward. Not that it's all thatched farmhouses and
timeless agricultural vistas, but certainly the rural traditions have
survived here longer than in most other parts of the country. However,
it doesn't take long to discover the region's particularly vibrant
crafts industry and huge array of festivals . Nor do you have to delve
much deeper to find the rich heritage of folk-tales and evidence of
ancient religious practices which give parts of north Honshu a
deliciously mysterious tang.
Northern Honshu, or Tohoku as it's often called (encompassing the six
prefectures covered here with the exception of Niigata), was the last
part of Japan's main island to be brought under central control. As such,
it boasts more in the way of military sights - ruined castles, samurai
towns and aristocratic tombs - than great temples or religious
foundations. The one glorious exception is Hiraizumi , a seemingly
insignificant town north of Sendai , whose opulent Golden Hall (Konjiki-do)
is the highlight of any tour round this region. By way of contrast,
perhaps the archetypal north-country town lies not far away, at Tono .
It's often referred to as the birthplace of Japanese folklore, where
goblin-like kappa inhabit local rivers and fairy children scamper
through old farmhouses. Much of this is heavily commercialized, but it's
still worth devoting a couple of days to exploring Tono's more secretive
shrines with their references to primitive cults. Darker forces are also
at work much further north where souls in purgatory haunt Osore-zan 's
volcanic wasteland on the hammer head Shimokita Hanto. In summer,
pilgrims come here to consult blind mediums, while over on the west
coast the holy mountain of Dewa-sanzan is home to yamabushi , ascetic
priests who are similarly endowed with mystical powers.
The region is also defined by its splendid scenery , ranging from
prolific rice-fields and cosseted orchards to the wild, rugged coastline,
and the pine-crusted islands of Matsushima Bay . The central spine of
magnificent empty mountains provides excellent opportunities for hiking
and skiing, notably around Bandai-san in the south and the more
northerly Towada-Hachimantai area. Both national parks, these areas are
noted for their flora and fauna, including black bears in remoter
districts, while Towada-ko itself is a massive crater lake accessed via
the picturesque Oirase valley . In Sado-ga-shima , a large island lying
off Niigata, dramatic mountain and coastal scenery provides the backdrop
for a surprisingly rich culture - a legacy of its isolation and a number
of famous, or infamous, characters who were exiled to the island.
Although there are good transport links between the main cities,
including Shinkansen lines to Tokyo, you need to allow plenty of time to
explore the more remote corners of northern Honshu - this is one place
where car rental is definitely worth considering. Public buses can be
sporadic at the best of times, with many services stopping completely in
winter, when heavy snowfalls close the mountain roads. Apart from ski
resorts, many tourist facilities outside the major cities shut down from
early November to late April. In general, the best time to visit is
either spring or autumn, before it gets too busy and while the scenery
is at its finest, though the uplands also provide welcome relief from
summer's sweltering heat. Note, however, that early August brings
thousands of people flocking to Tohoku's big four festivals in Sendai,
Aomori, Hirosaki and Akita. If you're travelling at this time, make sure
you've got your transport and accommodation sorted out well in advance.
JR offers a variety of special rail tickets covering the Tohoku district.
JR East operates three schemes similar to the regular JR Pass . Their
four-day, five-day and ten-day passes are valid on all JR trains,
including the Shinkansen, from Izu and Nagano to the northern tip of
Honshu. Of these, the four-day pass is the most useful, since it is
valid for any four days within a month, rather than a consecutive period,
so you can save it to cover longer train journeys within the region.
Note that these passes are only available to those on a "temporary
visitor" visa and must be purchased outside Japan. The ten-day Tohoku
Wide Pass can be bought in Japan and covers all JR trains and buses
within the Tohoku region, including travel from Tokyo but excluding
Shinkansen trains. However, the ten days must run consecutively, and to
get your money's worth you'll have to take a number of long journeys
within this period.
OKINAWA
The prefecture of Okinawa comprises more than one hundred islands,
stretching over 700km of ocean from Kyushu southwest to Yonaguni-jima,
almost within sight of Taiwan. Collectively known as the Ryukyu Shoto ,
this chain of subtropical islands, with their lush vegetation, paradise
beaches and superb coral reefs, has become a popular destination for
Japanese holiday-makers and foreign residents alike. Few other tourists
make it down here, partly because of the time and cost involved, but if
you've had your fill of shrines and temples, want to check out some of
Japan's best beaches and dive sites , or simply fancy a spot of winter
sun, then Okinawa is well worth considering.
The largest island in the group, Okinawa-Honto , usually referred to
simply as Okinawa, is the region's transport hub and home to its
prefectural capital, Naha . It's also the most heavily populated and
developed of the Ryukyu chain, thanks largely to the controversial
presence of American military bases . While it's the remoter islands
that are worth concentrating on - particularly the Yaeyama group centred
around Ishigaki-jima - Okinawa-Honto boasts a number of historical
sights, many of them associated with the Battle of Okinawa at the end of
the Pacific War . But the island has more to offer, particularly in its
northern region, where the old way of life still survives among the
isolated villages.
To see the best of the region, you have to hop on a plane or ferry and
explore the dozens of outer islands , many of which are uninhabited.
Even quite close to Naha, you'll find gorgeous beaches and fantastic
dive spots around the Kerama islands , just 30km off the main island.
Divers and beach connoisseurs will want to visit Miyako-jima and
Ishigaki-jima , way down the Ryukyu chain, where tiny star-shaped shells
dust the sand. If you're looking for an idyllic retreat, Taketomi-jima
can't be beaten, while the adventurous will want to explore Iriomote-jima
, coated in thick groves of mangrove and steamy rainforest and home to
the elusive Iriomote lynx.
It's on these outer islands that you'll also find the strongest evidence
of the much-vaunted Ryukyu culture , born of contact with Taiwan and
China, as well as Japan. The most obvious features are different types
of food a vibrant use of colour, and bold, tropical patterns, while the
Chinese influence is clearly visible in the architecture, traditional
dress and the martial art of karate - the Ryukyu warriors preferred mode
of protection. Ancient religious beliefs are kept alive by shamen (called
yuta ) and, on Okinawa-Honto, there are sumo bouts between bulls.
There's also a Ryukyu dialect, with dozens of variations between the
different islands, unique musical instruments, and a distinctive musical
style which has captured an international audience through bands such as
Nenes, Diamantes and Champloose. If you're lucky, you'll stumble on a
local festival, such as giant rope tug-of-war contests or dragon-boat
races, while the biggest annual event is the Eisa festival (15th of the
seventh lunar month) when everyone downs tools and dances to the
incessant rhythms of drums, flutes and the three-stringed sanshin .
Those in search of local crafts will find beautiful Bingata textiles the
most appealing. Originally reserved for court ladies, Bingata fabrics
are hand-dyed with natural pigments from hibiscus flowers and various
vegetables, in simple but striking patterns. Also worth searching out
are the fine jofu cloths of Miyako-jima and the Yaeyama Islands, once
gifted in tribute to the local monarchs. Ceramics are thought to have
been introduced to the region from Spain and Portugal in the fifteenth
century, but Ryukyu potters concentrated on roof tiles and fairly rustic
utensils. Nowadays, they churn out thousands of sake flasks and shiisa -
the ferocious lion figures that glare down at you from every rooftop.
The exquisite local lacquerware has a long history in the islands, too,
having been introduced over 500 years ago from China, but the glassware
you'll find is much more recent: it's said production took off in the
postwar years when Okinawans set about recycling the drinks bottles of
the occupying US forces.
Besides Hokkaido, Okinawa contains Japan's largest areas of unspoilt
natural environment and greatest biodiversity. Much of this wealth of
wildlife is underwater, spawned by the warm Kuroshio current that sweeps
up the east coast and allows coral reefs to flourish. But on land, too,
there are a number of unique species, including turtles, a crested eagle
and the noguchigera (Pryer's woodpecker), in addition to Iriomote's wild
cat, the yamaneko. A less welcome local resident is the highly poisonous
habu snake . It measures around 2m in length, is dark green with a
yellow head, and usually lurks in dense vegetation or on roadsides,
though rarely ventures into urban areas. As long as you're careful -
especially during spring and autumn - you should have no problems, but
if you are bitten, make for the nearest hospital where they should have
anti-venom.
With its subtropical climate , Okinawa stays warm throughout the year.
Average annual temperatures are around 23°C, with a winter average of
17°C and a minimum of 10°C. Winter lasts from December through February,
while the hot, humid summer starts in April and continues into September.
Temperatures at this time hover around 34°C and the sun can be pretty
intense, though the sea breezes help. The best time to visit is in
spring or autumn, roughly March to early May and late September to
December. The rainy season lasts from early May to early June, while
typhoons can be a problem in July and August, and occasionally into
October.
One of the more unusual ways of getting to Okinawa - and Japan - is to
take the international ferry from Taiwan via Ishigaki and Miyako islands
to Naha . By far the majority of visitors, however, arrive by plane.
Most come from the Japanese mainland, though there are international
flights to Naha from Taiwan, Korea and Hong Kong. Domestic airlines
operate between Naha and Tokyo, Osaka and a number of other Japanese
cities , while a few fly direct to Ishigaki and Miyako. Though flying
can be expensive, discounts are becoming increasingly common, so it's
always worth asking the airlines and travel agents. Overseas visitors
can also take advantage of the airpasses offered by JAL and ANA .
The other option is a local ferry from Tokyo, Osaka, Kobe or one of
several cities on Kyushu. All of these services stop in Naha, from where
some continue to Miyako and Ishigaki . These ferries can be a great way
to travel if you're not in a hurry, though horribly crowded in the peak
summer season.
Getting around between islands presents a similar choice between air and
sea, with Naha as the main hub. Inter-island flights are operated by
Japan Transocean Air (JTA), Ryukyu Air Commuter (RAC) and Air Nippon (ANK),
with connections to all the major islands. The ferry network, on the
other hand, fans out from Naha's three terminals to every corner of the
prefecture, allowing you to island-hop at your leisure. See individual
island accounts for more about these sailings.
SHIKOKU
It has beautiful scenery, a laid-back atmosphere, friendly people
and several notable sights, yet SHIKOKU , Japan's fourth main island, is
usually at the bottom of most visitors' itineraries - if it appears at
all. This is a shame, since this tranquil island, which nestles in the
crook between Honshu and Kyushu, offers elements of traditional Japan
that are often hard to find elsewhere. An ancient Buddhist pilgrimage,
original castles and distinctive arts and crafts are some of Shikoku's
attractions - but equally appealing is the island's rural, less
frantically modern pace of life and its little-visited villages. You'll
need a week or so to get around all Shikoku's four prefectures. If you
only have a day, though, head straight for either of the island's justly
famous draws: Matsuyama's splendid castle and hot springs at Dogo and
the landscape gardens of Ritsurin-koen in Takamatsu.
According to legend, Shikoku was the second island (after Awaji-shima)
born to Izanagi and Izanami, the gods who are considered to be Japan's
parents. Its ancient name was Iyo-no-futana and it was divided into four
main areas: Awa (now Tokushima-ken), Iyo (Ehime-ken), Sanuki (Kagawa-ken)
and Tosa (Kochi-ken). These epithets are still used today when referring
to the different prefectures' cuisines and traditional arts. Apart from
being the scene of a decisive battle between the Taira and Minamoto
clans in the twelfth century , Shikoku has had a relatively peaceful
history, due in part to its isolation from the rest of Japan. This ended
with the opening of the Seto Ohashi in 1989, a series of six bridges
which leapfrogs the islands of the Inland Sea and carries both trains
and cars. It has now been joined by the Akashi Kaikyo Ohashi - the
longest single-span suspension bridge in the world - connecting Shikoku
to Honshu via Awaji-shima, the island to the west of Tokushima, and the
Nishi Seto Expressway, running along ten bridges spanning nine islands
between Onomichi in Hiroshima-ken and Imabari on the island's northern
coast.
Most of Shikoku's population of around four million is to be found in
its four prefectural capitals: Takamatsu, Tokushima, Kochi and Matsuyama.
The island is split by a vast mountain range that runs from Tsurugi-san
in the east, to Ishizuchi-san, Shikoku's tallest peak, in the west. The
northern coast, facing the Inland Sea, is heavily developed, in contrast
to the predominantly rural south, where the unimpeded kuroshio (black
current) of the Pacific Ocean has carved a rugged coastline of sheer
cliffs and outsized boulders. The climate throughout the island is
generally mild, although the coasts can be lashed by typhoons and the
mountains see snow in the winter.
Shikoku's best all-round destination is Matsuyama, but you're more than
likely to begin your journey around the island in Kagawa-ken on the
northern coast, after crossing the Seto Ohashi. Stop in Takamatsu to
visit the delightful gardens of Ritsurin-koen , the Yashima plateau,
immediately east of the city, site of a historic clan battle, and, in
the west of the prefecture, the shrine at Kotohira . If you have a bit
more time, take a trip out to one of the nearby Inland Sea islands, such
as Shodo-shima or Nao-shima . Eastern Shikoku and the central, secluded
Iya valley are part of Tokushima-ken , famous for its capital city
Tokushima's annual Awa Odori dance festival, the whirlpools at Naruto
and the turtles who come to lay their eggs at Hiwasa each summer.
Shikoku's southern coast, fanning out between the capes at Ashizuri and
Muroto, is covered by Kochi-ken , where fighting sumo dogs and long-tailed
roosters are the local attractions, along with an original castle in the
capital, Kochi. Flowing through the west of prefecture is the
Shimantogawa , one of Japan's most beautiful rivers. Matsuyama , the
capital of the eastern prefecture of Ehime-ken , is justly famous for
its castle - one of the best in Japan - and the onsen at Dogo, where
emperors and commoners have come to bathe for centuries. Just outside
Matsuyama, the small towns of Uwajima and Uchiko , relatively untouched
by industrialization, give glimpses of a Japan long since past.
Despite being off the beaten track, Shikoku has good tourist facilities.
In the prefectural capitals you'll find a decent range of hotels,
restaurants and bars, not to mention international centres and tourist
information offices, while the island's famous 88-temple pilgrimage ,
means that even in the countryside you're unlikely to be stuck for
accommodation. Getting around by public transport is easy enough, though
a rented car will obviously give you more flexibility and really comes
into its own if you want to get to the villages of the Iya Valley or
explore Western Kochi-ken and the Simanto-gawa area. Train services are
not as frequent as on the mainland, but the island's compact size means
you can easily cross it in a day.
Of the several discount schemes that you may find useful while
travelling in Shikoku, JR's Young Weekend Card gives 16- to 29-year-olds
forty percent off all rail travel on the island from after 5pm on Friday
until midnight on Sunday and public holidays. The card costs ¥500 and is
available from all JR stations and is worth looking into if you don't
qualify for a JR rail pass. Also useful are the Seto Inland Sea Welcome
Card for Ehime-ken and the similar Kagawa Welcome Card. These free cards,
which last a year and provide discounts of up to twenty percent on a
good range of hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions, are available
from all the major tourist information offices and come with handy
information booklets in English, Korean and Chinese.
As for food , the four prefectures all have their own special dishes,
such as Kagawa-ken's tasty sanuki udon noodles and Kochi-ken's tosa
ryori - platters of delectable fresh fish. Make sure you eat early in
the evening, especially in the countryside, as restaurants usually shut
before 9pm.
TOKYO
On the edge of the Orient, TOKYO - the last great conurbation before
the yawning chasm of the Pacific Ocean - is one of the world's most
perplexing cities. On the one hand, gaudily hung about with eyeball-searing
neon and messy overhead cables, plagued by seemingly incessant noise,
often clogged with bumper-to-bumper traffic and packed with twelve
million people squashed into minute apartments, it can seem like the
stereotypical urban nightmare. Yet behind the barely ordered chaos lie
remnants of a very different way of life. Step back from the frenetic
main roads and chances are you'll find yourself in a world of tranquil
backstreets, where wooden houses are fronted by neatly clipped bonsai
trees; wander beyond the high-tech department stores, and you'll find
ancient temples and shrines. In this city of 24-hour shops and vending
machines, a festival is held virtually every day of the year, people
regularly visit their local shrine or temple and scrupulously observe
the passing seasons. And, at the centre of it all, is the mysterious
green void of the Imperial Palace - home to the emperor and a tangible
link to the past.
In many ways Tokyo is also something of a modern-day utopia. Trains run
on time; the crime rate is hardly worth worrying about; shops and
vending machines provide everything you could need (and many things you
never thought you needed) 24 hours a day; the people wear the coolest
fashions, eat in fabulous restaurants and party in the hippest clubs.
It's almost impossible to be bored here and first-time visitors should
be prepared for a massive assault on the senses - just walking the
streets of this hyperactive city can be an energizing experience. You'll
also be surprised how affordable many things are. Cheap-and-cheerful
izakaya (bars that serve food) and noodle shacks far outnumber the big-ticket
French restaurants and high-class ryotei , where geisha serve minimalist
Japanese cuisine, while day-tickets for a sumo tournament or a Kabuki
play can be bought for the price of a few drinks. Many of the city's
highlights are even free: a stroll through the evocative Shitamachi (low
city) area around Asakusa and the major Buddhist temple Senso-ji ; a
visit to the tranquil wooded grounds of Meiji-jingu , the city's most
venerable Shinto shrine, and the nearby teenage shopping mecca of
Harajuku ; the frenetic fish market at Tsukiji ; the crackling, neon-saturated
atmosphere of the mini-city Shinjuku - you don't need to part with lots
of cash to explore this city.
Even if you don't arrive in Tokyo, chances are you will end up here or
pass through on your way to other parts of Japan, since the capital is
the major transport hub . Every day, scores of Shinkansen (bullet trains)
speed up to the far north of Honsho or south to Kyushu, while flights,
buses and ferries connect Tokyo to the far-flung corners and islands of
the Japanese archipelago.
The only time Tokyo is best avoided is during the steamy height of
summer in August and early September, when the city's humidity sees its
citizens scurrying from one air-conditioned haven to another. October
and November, by contrast, are great months to take in the spectacular
fireburst of autumn leaves in Tokyo's parks and gardens. Temperatures
dip to freezing in the winter months, though the crisp blue skies are
rarely disturbed by rain or snow showers. April is the month when
Tokyoites love to party beneath the flurries of falling cherry blossoms
- one of the best months to visit the capital. Carrying an umbrella is a
good idea during tsuyu , the rainy season in June and September, when
typhoons occasionally strike the coast.
Legend says that a giant catfish sleeps beneath Tokyo Bay, and its
wriggling can be felt in the hundreds of small tremors that rumble the
capital each year. Around every seventy years, the catfish awakes,
resulting in the kind of major earthquake seen in 1995 in Kobe. There is
a long-running, half-hearted debate about moving the Diet and main
government offices out of Tokyo, away from danger. Yet, despite the fact
that the city is well overdue for the Big One, talk of relocating the
capital always comes to nothing. Now, more than ever before, Tokyo is
the centre of Japan, and nobody wants to leave and miss any of the
action.
WESTERN HONSHU
Also known as Chugoku , meaning "middle country", Western Honshu
used to be at the centre of the Japanese nation, lying between the
country's earliest settlements in Kyushu and the imperial city of Kyoto.
The region is split geographically into two distinct areas, with the
southern San-yo coast being blighted by heavy industry but bordering the
enchanting Inland Sea, while the rugged and sparsely populated northern
San'in coast boasts some delightful small towns and a generally pristine
landscape. The southern coast is easy to travel around, with Shinkansen
lines, good local railway services and highways, while the northern
coast takes more planning to tour by public transport, but easily repays
the effort.
Though Chugoku is rich in history, with burial mounds on both coasts
dating from the first century, it's a more contemporary event that
brings most visitors to the region. Lying midway along the San-yo coast,
Hiroshima , site of the world's first atom bomb and the region's largest
city, is the one place you'll want to stop off en route to or from
Kyushu. If you only have a few days, you should also aim to take in the
old towns of Kurashiki and Matsue, as well as the island Miya-jima . In
a couple of weeks, you could make a circuit of both coasts taking in
most of the region's highlights.
At the eastern end of the San-yo coast, Okayama has one of Japan's top
gardens, Korakuen , and makes a good base for visiting the beautifully
preserved Edo-era town of Kurashiki . One of the best things about
travelling around Okayama-ken is a stay in its International Villas,
unique to the prefecture and dotted around some of its more remote parts,
generally in beautiful locations. Heading west along the coast, one of
the treasures of Hiroshima-ken is the timeless fishing village of
Tomo-no-Ura with its gorgeous views across the Inland Sea. The raffishly
appealing port of Onomichi , just to the north, is also the jumping-off
point for the laid-back island, Ikuchi-jima , home to Japan's wackiest
temple complex and a lovely art museum.
The one island of the Inland Sea you won't want to miss is verdant Miya-jima,
just west of Hiroshima, site of the ancient shrine Itsukushima-jinja
with its water-bound red torii . On the southern coast of neighbouring
Yamaguchi-ken, the only prefecture to span Chugoku, pause to admire the
elegant bridge Kintai-kyo at Iwakuni and the spectacular view across the
narrow Kanmon Straits to Kyushu from Hino-yama in Shimonoseki , the port
at the tip of Honshu. Inland, the highlights of the prefecture's small
capital, Yamaguchi , are an impressive pagoda and classic Zen rock and
moss garden.
East along the frequently deserted San'in coast, Hagi , an old castle
town and hot-bed of pre-Meiji-era revolt, boasts a lovely cluster of old
samurai houses and atmospheric temples. Perhaps even more beautiful is
Tsuwano , another small castle town nestling in a tranquil valley,
further east in Shimane-ken. This prefecture is the heartland of Japan's
eight million Shinto deities, who gather each year in October at the
venerable shrine Izumo Taisha, near the appealing waterbound capital of
Matsue . Roughly mid-point along the San'in coast, Matsue has the
region's only original castle tower as well as some old samurai houses
and interesting museums. The sand spit Amanohashidate , at the far
eastern reaches of the region, marks the end of the San-in coast, and
provides some of Japan's most scenic views.
A regular JR Rail Pass is the most convenient way of getting around the
region, but if you plan to stick only to the San-yo coast consider the
cheaper JR West San-yo Area Pass , covering all Shinkansen and local
rail routes between Osaka and Fukuoka. For quicker access to the region
there are several airports , including two near Hiroshima, Okayama, Ube
close to Shimonoseki, and Yonago near the San-in city of Matsue. If time
isn't an issue, then don't miss out on a leisurely ferry ride across the
Inland Sea . Renting a car is a good idea, especially if you're planning
to tour the quieter San'in coast, as the fast Chugoku Expressway , which
threads its way through the region's central mountainous spine, from
where you can branch off to sights on either coast.
If you're going to be travelling in Hiroshima-ken and Yamaguchi-ken in
Western Honshu, and Ehime-ken in Shikoku , make sure you get a Seto
Inland Sea Welcome Card . This free card, which lasts a year, provides
discounts of up to twenty percent at over 300 hotels, restaurants and
tourist facilities in these three prefectures bordering the western end
of the Inland Sea. To qualify for the card you need to be an overseas
visitor who has been in Japan for less than a year, or a foreign
student. The cards are available from the TICs in Tokyo, Narita and
Kansai International airports, as well as at the TICs and international
centres in the three prefectures. You'll need to take along your
passport or alien registration card, plus student ID if you're a
full-time student. The card comes with a useful booklet in English,
Chinese and Korean outlining all the participating organizations and
businesses.
As in other areas of Japan, Chugoku has it's own distinct styles of
cuisine . Along the San-yo coast, fish, unsurprisingly, is the thing to
eat, with oysters being especially popular around Hiroshima, and the
notorious fugu (blowfish) being Shimonoseki's top dish. Hiroshima also
has a special way of preparing okonomiyaki , a delicious Japanese batter
pancake, while both Iwakuni and Kurashiki make their own varieties of
sushi. On the San'in coast, Matsue is renowned for its kyodo ryori ,
seven dishes made with fish and seafood from Lake Shinji-ko. It's worth
a look at the plates you're eating off, too: both Hagi, at the far
western end of the San-in coast, and Imbe, east of Okayama, are famous
for their distinctive pottery - Hagi-yaki and Bizen-yakim respectively.
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