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AKAN KOHAN

 
 
 
The compact onsen resort of AKAN KOHAN , on the southern shore of Akan-ko and bursting with ritzy hotels and giftshops, is the most commercialized part of the national park, but is worth considering as a base if you plan to hike up the nearby peaks of Me-Akan-dake (1499m) and O-Akan-dake (1371m). At the western end of town, a ten-minute walk from the bus station, is the Ainu Kotan , a depressingly fake Ainu "village", which is little more than a short road of giftshops selling identical carved wood figures. Two hundred Ainu are said to live here. Visitors can watch a performance of traditional dance and music in the thatched chise (house) at the top of the shopping parade, and there's a tiny museum (daily 10am-10pm; ¥300) in a hut beside the chise , where the most interesting exhibits are the traditional Ainu costumes.

Just beyond the Ainu Kotan is the Akan Forest and Lake Culture Centre (daily 10am-5pm; ¥500), a small exhibition area with an impressive slide show of owls and some excellent examples of woodcarvings - much better than those you'll see in the giftshops. Look out also for a tank of marimo , the velvety green weedballs that are indigenous to Akan-ko. Much is made of the marimo in Akan Kohan; the lake is one of the few places in the world where this weed is found and you can buy bottled baby marimo in all the giftshops. It can take two hundred years for the weedballs to grow to the size of baseballs.

Dedicated botanists might want to take the boat trip across the lake to the small island of Churui-shima, where the Marimo Exhibition Centre (daily 7.30am-5.30pm; ¥400, or ¥1520 including the return boat trip) has an underwater viewing tank. If you're lucky, you'll see the marimo balls bobbing up to the surface of the lake to breathe. Back in Akan Kohan, there's yet more marimo on display in the visitor centre (daily 9am-5pm) at the eastern end of town, but it's more interesting to head along the pleasant woodland trails which start behind the centre and lead to the Bokke , a small area of bubbling mud pools beside the lake.

Many of the hotels in Akan Kohan allow day visitors into their onsen baths, usually between 11am and 3pm. This will cost around ¥1500 at either the New Akan Hotel Shangrila or the Akan Grand Hotel , which has the most elaborate tubs, including roof-top baths for women and a landscaped rotemburo with a view across the lake, for men.
 
 
 
 

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