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AIKAWA

 
 
 
After gold and silver were discovered in 1601, the population of AIKAWA rocketed from a hamlet of just ten families to 100,000 people, of whom many were convict labourers. Now a mere tenth of that size, there's nothing specific to see in Aikawa beyond the mine museum a few kilometres out of town. Nevertheless, it's not an unattractive place for an overnight stay once you get off the main road and delve among the temples, shrines and wooden houses pressed up against the hillside.

The road from Sawata enters Aikawa from the southeast beside the Sado Royal Hotel Mancho and then turns north along the seafront, past the bus terminal and skirts round the main town centre. Just beyond the municipal playing fields, at the north end of Aikawa, a right turn leads up a steep narrow valley to the old gold mines of Sado Kinzan (April-Oct 8am-5pm; Jan-March, Nov & Dec 8.30am-4.30pm; ¥700). The Sodayu tunnel, one of the mine's richest veins, is now a museum showing working conditions during the Edo period, complete with sound effects and life-size mechanical models, followed by a small exhibition with equally imaginative dioramas of the miners at work. You can reach Sado Kinzan by local bus (line #21) from Ryotsu (4 daily; 1hr 20min) and Aikawa (8 daily; 15min), though for most of the year these only run on weekends and national holidays. Alternatively, several tour buses include Kinzan on their itineraries, along with the " Skyline " road, which climbs east to Kinpoku-san (1173m). From here you get fine views over the whole island.
 
 
 
 

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